TAMPA — What makes a really good Peruvian sandwich?
At Meanchi’s, a Peruvian-inspired food truck in Tampa, owner Josh Varon seems to have found the answer.
For him, it’s a combination of things. First, it’s about tradition — giving indigenous ingredients and recipes the attention they deserve. But it’s also about adopting a contemporary, fast-casual mindset: taking risks and thinking outside the box.
His best-selling Chicharron sandwich ($11) makes a pretty compelling argument for both. Instead of the traditional pork belly, Varon swaps in roasted, fried pork shoulder and pairs it with thick planks of fried sweet potatoes, a zingy salsa criolla made with red wine vinegar-pickled onions and aji amarillo peppers. It’s served on a fluffy white French roll (sourced from the nearby bakery at Greek restaurant Psomi) and features a striking combination of textures and flavors: Smoky hunks of pork get a nice zap from the bright,