Loro Gives A Master Class on Blending Asian and Barbecue

It’s a risky business these days to fuse styles of food. In these prickly times, what seems like the harmless blending of cooking techniques and styles can easily blow up. Make a misstep or show disrespect, and what used to be called “fusion cuisine” becomes “cultural appropriation.”

So, maybe it takes a lot of guts in 2021 to open up Loro, a place that calls itself an “Asian Smokehouse & Bar.” Borrowing flavors and styles from the East and Texas barbecue to create a menu? Texans don’t like being messed with, and that goes double when it comes to their barbecue. But perhaps the larger risk is seeing two white male chefs bring an “Asian Smokehouse” concept from Austin to Dallas. Recent history here shows how quickly tempers can flare.

For example, last year’s social media feud between Mot Hai Ba’s chef Peja Krstic and several Vietnamese American women

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Filipino barbecue spot on Texas farm road draws big crowds after Mike Chen visit

Old Rooster Creek Filipino/Asian American BBQ (ORC BBQ) in Princeton, Texas, has enjoyed a steady following since its 2017 debut. But after YouTube celebrity and now-Dallas-area-resident Mikey Chen featured the barbecue spot in a recent video, swarms of new customers queued up hours before opening time on Saturday. They were eager to try the lechón (whole roasted pig stuffed with herbs) and Filipino street foods that Chen touted in his April 20 video.

Within two hours, the mom-and-pop business sold out of pork — including 1,200 skewers — and nearly all of the other Filipino dishes on the menu.

It was a record day for owners Josephine and Allen Cook, who run the weekends-only outdoor food stall near a farm road in the Collin County town of Princeton. Between the whole pigs roasting on spits and the cheery “shack” that’s both counter and kitchen, it’s a dead-ringer for the

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