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Vancouver International Airport (YVR) is a misnomer—British Columbia’s biggest airport isn’t actually in the city at all. Planes actually touch down in Richmond, B.C., a destination fewer have heard of, lying just across the Fraser River from downtown Vancouver.
With about 224,000 inhabitants, Richmond itself is British Columbia’s fourth-largest city, though it’s unremarkable at first glance with its low-key sprawl wrapped by fishing piers and estuaries. But look a little deeper and Richmond has earned a quiet rep among food lovers for some of the continent’s finest Asian cuisine—after all, the Chinese community here has roots extending to the province’s gold rush days. The area is home to dim sum palaces, Hong Kong-style barbecue joints, and a night market that