See Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon’s New Restaurant Chifa

Opening a restaurant during a pandemic is a daunting task, but Opening Ceremony’s co-founder Humberto Leon is up for the challenge. Along with his mom, Wendy (more affectionately known as popo, which is Cantonese for grandma); sister Ricardina; and brother-in-law John Liu, Leon soft-opened Chifa, a Chinese-Peruvian spot in Eagle Rock, Los Angeles, at the end of November.

Named after the Peruvians term for Chinese restaurants, Chifa represents the family’s unique mix of cultures. Popo Wendy immigrated from China to Peru, where she owned a restaurant in Lima before moving again to Los Angeles. The menu includes Peruvian chicken and fries, traditional zhongzi (aka sticky rice dumplings), and a nod to Liu’s Taiwanese heritage in the form of a three-day beef noodle soup.

Chifa opened the week that the city of Los Angeles shut down outdoor dining due to a growing second wave of COVID infections. That timing

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Eagle Rock restaurant Chifa opens amid L.A. COVID-19 spike

Humberto Leon, cofounder of the cult fashion brand Opening Ceremony, has opened an Eagle Rock restaurant with his family — yes in the middle of a pandemic — that pairs the family’s take on Chinese and Peruvian cuisine with his stylistic flair and love of collaboration.

The result? A jewel box of a space that aims to fill your belly, capture your heart and delight your eyes even if, at least for now, that means peering through a heart-shaped window when you stop by to pick up your takeout order.

Chifa (the Peruvian word for a Chinese restaurant) is a reboot and reimagining — 45 years later — of the restaurant Leon’s mother, Wendy Leon, opened in Lima, Peru, before the family immigrated to the U.S. and settled in Eagle Rock.

Wendy has long been part of her son’s fashion-focused world, cooking for Opening Ceremony events and appearing in an

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