New Asian American bakeries find bicultural sweet spot



Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)


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Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)

OAKLAND, Calif. (AP) — For some Asian Americans, the dim sum cookie at Sunday Bakeshop here will taste like childhood.

It looks like a typical sugar cookie except with sesame seeds on top. But bite into the creamy, red bean center and it’s reminiscent of the fried, filled sesame balls served at a Chinese dim sum restaurant.

The concoction is pastry chef Elaine Lau’s nod to her grandmother, who would often make them. The baked goods that Lau’s

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At Lingr in St. Petersburg, Norwegian and Chinese flavors converge and harmonize

ST. PETERSBURG — If there’s one dish that perfectly encapsulates the ethos of Lingr, chef Jeffrey Jew’s ambitious new restaurant, it’s probably the salt and pepper fish cakes.

Somewhere in between a Norwegian fiskeboller and the curried fish balls you’d find on a Hong Kong street food cart, the golf ball-sized orbs are plump with Faroe Island salmon and flavored with white pepper and Sichuan peppercorns. They’re delivered in a mustard sauce that’s inspired by a hot Norwegian mustard and a Chinese sauce made with tamari, black vinegar, soy and what Jew calls “that old-school secret Chinese ingredient”: ketchup.

I can’t tell if he’s joking about that last part, but I don’t care: The fish cakes are delicious.

So, this is a fusion restaurant, right? Sort of. Not exactly.

The shtick here is Norwegian and Cantonese, or more broadly, a Nordic-inspired restaurant with Asian influence. It’s an homage to Jew’s

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