He opened a second location of Cha Oc Gia Huy in the Eden Center, the Falls Church shopping center that has long been a destination for anyone with a taste of Vietnamese food and culture. About two years ago, Pham personally set up shop inside the Saigon East building (6757 Wilson Blvd., No. 9; 703-988-1993), where he specializes in the street foods of Vietnam, with an emphasis on an escargot-pork sausage called cha oc.
During the coronavirus pandemic, Pham has placed tables outside his shop at Eden, lending his business the air of a street vendor forced to seek shelter in a hallway. The first time I met Pham in the hallway, he steered me to two of his signature dishes: bo la lot ($15 a pack), these pressed lengths of minced beef, shot through with garlic and oyster sauce, then wrapped in betel leaves. Pham cooks the little packages